whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke

sheikh marwan bin mohammed al maktoum May 20, 2023

I always try and relax and dont rush my fittings. Outstanding blog, Simon. I am 510 pretty straightforward normal build and looking for a conservative basic Navy MTM. I was able to travel to London to meet Sian for the basted fitting. I would estimate 9cm but if you get a chance to measure it I would be grateful. Between them, this trio can bring to bear a huge range of different skills. I have to say at the first fitting was impressed at the quality / value. Their business moved to Savile Row in 1846, following the death of founder James Poole. How about the Huntsman 100 product? All chests are hand felled and lapels and collars are hand padded. I must say that I sincerely couldnt be more pleased. Really great blog. I agree building a relationship is a big part of it, yes. This article maybe one of the most significant you have written in terms of opening up bespoke suiting to a market that couldnt justify the 3k plus cost of a row suit, irrespective of relative value. Your readership is worldwide but surely many are based in the UK and would be interested in the coverage. HB, In some ways, yes, though the structure etc is different and the value itself even better too. Hi Salvatore, For sewing the shirt you can choose the following fabrics: poplin, jacquard, oxford, twill, pinpoint or herringbone. And 100 Hands does shirts in India but as the quality is so high, its still expensive, I had a navy worsted two piece suit made at W&S which was cut by Sian. Yes, a small change in lapel width is fine. W&S was at about the same price point without the extra trousers for a super 100 9/10 oz made in seven weeks in India. In addition, the fitting of the trousers was really quite poor, yet the stand-in fitter (John was away) pushed me hard that they were fine. Get the Robb Report newsletter for similar stories delivered straight to your inbox. Similarly for General Eyewear, great guys and i am very happy with the end result. Next, however, I ran the risk despite your seemingly strong opinion against drawing a tailor away from his natural house style, Simon of asking Suresh to make me an even softer, more Neapolitan style sports jacket. A bit more expensive but still good. Though no, its a noticeable but not huge difference to go for 11oz rather than 13oz, I have suits in both. Fit not good. I have a coat in a pale wool that perhaps could have looked like a toile? Were lucky that our workshop allows us to turn fittings around for clients relatively quickly while keeping total control of quality, Suresh explains. For example, can the lapel width (not shape necessarily) be extended slightly? Hi Simon. Ready-to-wear garments, no matter how well altered, can never be as accurately fitted as one made by a skilled craftsman who constructs it especially for your body. Their business has actually been going for a few years enough to train up that whole Indian workshop without much exposure at all. I tried them at home but was not convinced, so i went back in and saw a third fitter (not sure where they get people from when John is not available) who agreed they were too baggy, and alterations were appropriately made. For years, we had our suits made, explains Suresh, and we both felt that you could find good product, but it was a struggle to find good advice. Both Suresh and Mahesh will be touring the U.S. between November 16 and December 1, visiting New York, Washington D.C., Boston, Los Angeles and then returning to New York. On first sight it looks horrendous: Tacky, cheap and overall so incredibly bad it almost feels like a parody or scam. Great post Simon, really enjoyed. I dont have the cloth number, but I can get it. No worries Ravi. Purely on craft, yes Id choose someone like Jennie. Equally, as Im probably going to take the leap, if youd like any feedback from me on it, Id be more than happy to share. In this article, Linus will be reviewing the final product of the trousers. I want to have a morning suit made. Bravo! A) Its hard, and I think people do and should rely on reviews more for that reason. Have been considering a Drakes MTM recently Simon, as a soft option. B) I think its worth avoiding where possible. Most are closer to the 1000 make and finish, but simply charge twice as much. if you have any other suggestions of tailors for morning wear (through word of mouth) I would be super grateful for the input Size given is an estimate. Their classic, bespoke suits and coats will be accurately fitted to the exact measurements of your body. Thanks as always, In London, just them and city tailors like Graham Browne. That was more specific to Rubinacci. Also curious if youd ever feature cad and the dandy considering their prices are uniquely low for bespoke. We decided to offer a hand-tailoring scheme, so John [McCabe] flew out to India and began to train local craftspeople to a Savile Row standard., The author in his corduroy suit and Donegal overcoat commissioned from Whitcomb & Shaftesbury. Thanks for this. Thanks Simon. Coats Read More Thanks! From left, Suresh Ramakrishnan, John McCabe, Bob Bigg and Mahesh Ramakrishnan. I particularly like the drama of Edward Sexton cuts in subtle fabrics, similar to your grey flannel suit. Their classic bespoke service, which involves cutting the suit in London (by a very experienced Row cutter), and then having it largely made in India (in a workshop run by a Row tailor) promised fantastic value at 1350 + VAT for a suit. Cloth - Suits Read More Artisan of the Year 2021: Whitcomb & Shaftes. Eventually, in a visit to London last summer, I had W & S make me a versatile grey flannel three-piece and I was extremely pleased: absolutely wonderful cut and fit, and exquisite hand finishing. They wont move the button or buttonhole, but they might open the shoulder seam and pick one side up slightly. Moreover, thanks to the well-oiled workings of the Chennai workshop, New York customers who place orders during the first leg of the trunk show (November 16-19), will be able to have their pieces fitted when the brothers pass back through New York between November 29 and December 1, negating a long wait (most tailors wont return to fit clients till spring 2022). As has been mentioned, your tie is stunning, but sadly it doesnt feature in Drakes current line up. Subscribe to RR1 Live+ for exclusive virtual events all year long (at least 1 per month), conversations with Robb Report editors, special perks, and more. People even complain when they find out some of the work is being done just off Carnaby Street, rather than in a basement off Savile Row. No, its a good question. My worry for a business like W&S is that theyre underselling themselves the price seems too much of a bargain. Whilst acknowledging that the intent of any bespoke tailoring is to enhance and flatter the wearer, I would be interested to read more about the tricks of the trade used to mitigate different physical challenges. Brilliant. How do you find out whether a certain off row tailor is really good? Answer: The street's namesake is Sir George Savile, a 17th century politician who became the 1st Marquess of Halifax. and lovely to talk to. This is definitely navy rather than blue Photography, light, white balance etc can change colours, particularly blues. When writing about the second suit might you include some further detail about the Cutter/Coatmaker and their views on what makes a good silhouette? You described some English suits as cuted with small drape (e.g. I understand there a differences in style obviously. Or would it be too structured? Thanks My experience not so good. Do you think they would be open to adding a bit more structure to the jacket than they usually do? I am not sure what it is made of but it is soft and plush. I understand this instinct, but it really depends on the house itself and how it works. Among many others, it is known for the large number of ateliers located on it, Read More. B.) Henry Poole etc.) Thats where John worked until 2010, and it is still his style. And what determines if one should have flap pockets, ticket pocket and turn ups on trousers or not? I wouldnt prioritise that over a colour of cloth I preferred, for example. Thank you for your help and the great website. As this can take a year or so? Fashion Designer - Whitcom & Shaftesbury Several top brands including Dunhill, Gieves & Hawkes, and Ozwald Boateng offer this service. Im looking at getting a first sportsjacket for casual wear made but the justification of 1500 for one despite the longetivity is negative. On the style questions, eg pockets, have you looked through the Suit Style series of posts? Its unlikely your right armhole doesnt have to be lower, unless that right shoulder is significantly smaller. Another question: in another post you mention desiring to be measured at the house itself; a friend of yours had gone to a trunk show and did not receive good results with fit. Like the lap seam down the back of the jacket (an idea I shamelessly copied across from my Chittleborough & Morgan suit). We felt that lack of advice offered us a huge gap in the market.. Simon. I hope that makes sense. It can be good advice to try and see the cutter at some stage rather than just a salesman, but even that varies widely depending on the salesman some of them are just as good. As bespoke is new to me, for both pieces i did my best to educate myself beforehand, but naturally must rely on the experience of the service provider. I am no expert in cloth so I can very easily have been mistaken and, of course, you know better than I what you have being made. Hi Jon, Really pleased although I think there might be some mistake I dont have a fitting in a toile. It looks a bit like Anderson & Sheppard and Dege & Skinner. From the sounds of it you were quite impressed with the offshore made suit. I had suits made in both, in order to compare them. Do you still recommend visiting the tailoring/shoemaking house itself, at least for initial consultation? Sartoria Dalcuore and W & S; both very interesting articles. The quality is similar, just with the price saving coming from the overseas make (presuming thats what you went for). Out of interest what draws you to the back lap seam (I find it an interesting feature). I question, upon reflection, if you can go to Spain and Italy (and India via W & S) might we see a time when you take into consideration the many fine UK tailors at points outside of London. Im always hesitant to suggest anything might be wrong with the jackets, without seeing them in person. Can I trust bespoke services there as I would in Napoli? Predominantly a Savile Row style or do they stray into Neapolitan construction as well? These might include intricate monograms, unique button placements, or other personal touches that make the suit truly one-of-a-kind. When buttoning I believe this creates a line along the right side of the jacket and most importantly pushes the collar up and it doesnt stay flush to my neck. Hi Simon, can i suggest an article on what are realistic expectations for bespoke services, and how to get the most out of bespoke-made items? The quality of his work surpasses anything I have had from the Row, or any of the big name French or Italian tailors often named here. It almost feels like cheating. Any other recommendations? I cant afford full Savile Row or top Neapolitan prices for my bespoke fetish, so I first read this review with great interest. Trousers are made entirely by hand, with hand-sewn curtained waistbands. Also, is it usually preferable to have the person you first meet about a garment also do the pattern and fitting? Fit is very good and I find the level of make and finishing not too far behind my other English bespoke suits. I havent Im afraid apart from Luxire part of the problem is theres a lot of them so its hard to say anything comprehensive. I think there is often a risk with bespoke that people expect perfection, and everything to have been considered for them, when it is more interactive, and does have most benefits over time. However, they didnt provide much design input during the process, and i really had to manage and push the project along. By the way, do you know whats the price at W&S for a Classic Bespoke tweed jacket? Give him a try; I dont imagine your will regret it. Im afraid its still some way off those at least in terms of finishing. And to be honest, that suggests to me you might be overanalysing this a bit but again, raise it with the tailor and see what they say. I like the house styles of Henry Poole and G&H, but I hoped to get the first bespoke suits a little bit cheaper. Thank you. One of the things you commonly say is not to change house style too much as there is a risk it might not turn out as expected, based on cutter experience, etc. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury Bespoke 2 Button Sport Coat 48 S. Fabric is soft with a fur appearance. Also, in terms of Whitcombs house styleI prefer a more classical style although my technical knowledge of suiting is lacking. Solito, Dalcuore, Caliendo and Rubinacci (in ascending order of price! Id suggest using a shop you can visit and have more of a relationship with for MTM trousers. Back in October there was a lot of interest around my post on the bespoke service at Whitcomb & Shaftesbury. Impressive finish, congratulations! Hi Simon, Before you raise an . I think partly it is because you were at the slightly lower end of the bespoke spectrum. Since you praise John McCabe for his cutting, I was wondering whether needs to be involved in the measurement process and therefore needs to be present during the first appointment? Buttonholes are sewn with silk thread by hand. Gone for a nice navy classic worsted. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury makes hand made bespoke suits and shirts using traditional tailoring techniques Whitcomb & Shaftesbury What i wanted was them to guide on what would look best based on their (extensive) experience, which they never really gave. Any thoughts as to where I might find one? I also wouldnt say it will make any difference seeing them both at different points. Londons Best New Tailors Arent on Savile Row. I mean its so majestic, amazing you should do a tutorial on it. The size is down to the tie thicker silk or lining for a bigger knot, a wider tie for a longer knot.. as Ive indicated in my comments on your Vergallo loden coat post, I will also be trying the W&S classic bespoke service for a winter flannel suit. Im attracted to the Classic Bespoke offering from W&S for a wedding suit but think I favour two button and slightly stronger shoulders. (Which one imagines is the standard 6-9 weeks. With a business suit I can see the clear value add with the handpadding of canvas and shoulders, but for softer tailoring of less canvassing and natural shoulders, (overall less structure) the compromise should not be as drastic? Simon, Ultimately, the tailor will be chosen to suit my budget. Thanks! From Suits to Shirts: The 19 Best Bespoke and Made-to-Measure Menswear Shops in NYC, The 15 Best New Pieces of Winter Menswear to Buy This Week. Are there any similar services like the Huntsman 100 from other savile row tailors you would recommend? Alex N. Even in fittings when there are no buttons and buttonholes, there will be rows of stitching or chalk marks where the buttons are planned to go, and these will line up. I dont think this is something you have covered already (apologies if i have missed it). It sounds like it might also be due to the fact that this was your first experience. Pinterest. Yes, Edward is more dramatic and youll find the drape style more comfortable during the day at work too. Not a toile. As a far-flung western Canadian from the provinces, Im not at all put off by the cheaper W & S option of having the finishing done in fellow former Commonwealth colony India; on the contrary, especially with their dedication to good training, fair trade, good wages, etc, I find this option not only economically attractive but also ethically admirable. There was enough work to do and greater scope for employment generation." http . This will offer better value than any MTM service, by some margin. P.S. As ever a brief article on this subject would be highly appreciated! Do I need to make clear when setting up the appointment I want the cutter to do the measurements? Subscribe now and get up to 61% off the cover price. Thats really interesting to hear. Very happy with her. Whitcomb might have a slightly greater range in style than Sexton, but not much. Looking back at this, would you still have gotten the suit in 13oz instead of something like a 10/11oz? The program helped to rehabilitate families whod had been affected by the tsunami, giving them new ways to earn a living, Suresh explains. 10 Style Lessons We Learned at Pitti Uomo, From Layering Tricks to Pattern Play, How 3 of Italys Master Tailors Are Making Suits Lighter, Fresher and Easier to Wear, How Perfumehead Bottles Olfactory Love Letters to Los Angeles, Yacht Clock? I am unsatisfied considering GB is 850 but their forte is not in this style of tailoring. 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